“Eagle Raven” Button Robe

“Eagle Raven Lovebirds” button blanket robe – collaboration of form line design by Preston Singletary and Clarissa Rizal seamstress (and she chose the fabrics and buttons) – Photograph by Ruth Borgfjord
Crystal Rogers from Juneau, Alaska modeled this button blanket at the DaZeTs’an Fashion Show Wednesday night, June 26th at the Adaka Festival in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory.
The robe is made of two types of woven cotton “tapestry-like” upholstery fabric, hand-appliqued with antique mother-of-pearl and abalone buttons.
“Diving Whale Lovebirds” Chilkat Robe

Clarissa’s latest Chilkat robe “Diving Whale Lovebirds” danced by Wayne Price during the “Weavers’ Dance” at the Adaka Festival in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – photograph by Ken Kaushansky
Well…I finished this robe on Summer Solstice 2013 in Whitehorse, Yukon just before it was hung as part of the Northwest Coast art exhibit at the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center. The owners of the robe rendevous-ed with me at the Festival to attend the ceremony, meet carver Wayne Price and have the robe placed in their arms. Again, it was not easy parting from another “child.”
The following photographs show the weaving progression from end to start – yes, sounds backwards don’t it, but just wanted to give you an artistic experience of “thinking backwards!”

In the professional photographer’s studio! (and no I’m not THAT big; the shirt is just big on me…hello!
According to my weaving teacher, the late Jennie Thlunaut, who passed at the age of 96 in 1986, she said that I must NEVER show my weaving-in-progress to the owners if the robe is commissioned. They are not to see the robe until it is completed. I never asked “why” because it was futile, I’d be wasting my words. To the best of my abilities, I did not, and have not, shown the progression of my robes as I have honored Jennie’s request.

Completed weaving the robe June 15th – then there were the side braids to be done – yum, yum, the side braids are the best part of weaving a Chilkat robe!
So now that I have completed the robe, and have delivered it to the rightful owners, I can show you the progression of the robe…

Whooooheee – finished the design field of the robe, just need to weave the borders, weave the side braids, weave the signature tie-offs, block the weaving, etc. – (a foreign language?)

Beginning to weave the bottom of the top and bottom of the beaks – the left one is Eagle and the right one is Raven…of course!

A few weaving details….now, I have never considered myself a very good weaver, although there are many who say otherwise. In so doing and being, I can say that I am progressing at it…every time I weave I get slightly better…in ways, i get better, my dear,…in ways!

yep, the colors of this robe are brilliant…(unlike the weaver who has lost her brilliancy as she has aged…)

more details…the circles are pretty good…not too bad….not too bad! Always pay attention to the braids…the braids are what shape the shapes…!

It is still winter time…had to wear my fleece topped by my Japanese quilted jacket with my hand-sewn Ainu headband…weaving, weaving, weaving…

The loom is in the guest room where I am borrowing the space cuz my studio is way too cold to work – it’s gotten down to zero degrees out there! — The plastic transparency “templates” are clipped to the warp…

Well, if you aren’t a friend of mine on Facebook, then you haven’t seen this photo take by my son, the film-maker…
Not a good idea to weave day and night like I can. Else you get to be a boring person; like I can be. And then you just want to stare at everything else except the weaving…and the grand-children! I don’t mind staring at the grandchildren! heeeheee!

…come to think of it, my eyes rest easy and well on my grandchildren!…so nice to have this one around while weaving…a real treat!

Bright and white day today…that’s because the spirits know there’s a new robe, a new “skin” that has been “born” most recently. good medicine.

The preliminary sketch of the Chilkat robe I’m about to start some day soon – I drafted this design just three weeks before my mother passed away…June 2011 – it took me two years to complete this weaving; of course, though I was doing all kinds of other major things as well in that time period (i.e. burying my mother, moving to Santa Fe to attend IAIA for BFA degree, commuting to Colorado to spend time with my daughter and family, an exhibit, taught a couple of classes and three different apprenticeships, not to mention travel, etc. etc. You know, it’s called an “artist’s life.” I would not recommend this lifestyle for the weak of heart…!
Collaboration With Preston Singletary
Couple of years ago I asked my friend Preston Singletary if he had some images suitable for making button robes; I didn’t feel like designing any robes, I just felt like getting down to the nitty gritty and get going on sewing ’em!
Preston’s design of this robe is based on our legend “Raven Steals the Sun”, bringing light to the world.

with a wet cloth placed over the cut-out applique, the heat from the iron fuses the image to the robe body
With the help of Lily and Bette in April, and later with my friend Lis Saya who helped lay out the buttons and sew them down, I finally finished this robe to this point by mid-June (though it still needs the circle of buttons about the body).
Huna Totem 40th Anniversary Button Robe

Clarissa finalizes her button blanket design for the Huna Totem’s celebration of their 40th anniversary
Back in February, I was given a week deadline in a competition to draft up a design that reflected one of Southeast Alaska’s Native Corporation’s 40th anniversary vision statement: “…sailing the canoe of our ancestor’s into the future…” I don’t know if I have ever been successful at drafting up a winning design in that short amount of time, but somehow the image came very easily to me and within a day I had the proposal and design done – that’s unheard of in my experiences.

“Stitch witchery” iron-on interfacing assists in applying the cut applique to the robe body – however, this stitch witchery must have been old because the fusion to the wool fabric did not work – alas, I had to hand-baste the design down before sewing it.
The robe was presented during the Huna 40th celebration at the Cannery Point in Hoonah, Alaska on Saturday, July 27th. Click here for the blog entry.

The unfinished robe; still needs the face in the Copper T’naa, the teeth on the shark and the “mountains”
The name of this robe is based on Huna Totem’s request: “…sailing the canoe of our Grandfathers into the future…” The Design explanation is as follows:
…there are four clans in Hoonah whose crests are depicted on the canoe L to R: The Chookaneidi clan’s octopus crest, the WooshkeeTaan clan’s Shark crest, the Kaagwaantaan clan’s wolf crest and the T’akDeinTaan clan’s black-legged kitty-wake crest. In the canoe are the Raven and the Eagle moieties each holding the Copper T’naa which represents the history, culture, wealth and arts. The Eagle and Raven moeities each share in the responsibility of carrying our culture in the canoe of our Grandfathers’ into the future…”
The cool thing about this commemorative 40th-year robe is that it can be worn in ceremony by any one from the four main clans from Hoonah, AND it can be hung on the corporate walls of Huna Totem…I really like the idea of its versatility.

After laying out the buttons under my direction, Lis begins to glue down the “Mt. Fairweather range”… which completes the robe
I never got a professional shot of the completed robe, not even a snap shot of the robe – so I cannot show you the entire robe until somebody sends me a photograph! Quick! – If you happened to be at the 40th anniversary celebration event in Hoonah and you have got a photograph of me doing the presentation, go for it and email me an image – and of course, I may want to use it in this blog entry and of course, I will give you photo credit! Thank you!
A Beautiful,Tlingit Ravenstail in Chilkat Split-U

Using two shades of blue weft, this Ravenstail zig-zag pattern is a nice inspiration for weaving “water” in Clarissa’s next Chilkat robe called ‘Resilience”
In each Chilkat robe I’ve woven, I have always played around with trying something new, like weaving “electric eyes” or “making waves” – in the robe I am presently weaving, I wove the above in a “split-u” shape. I’ve woven this before, but in a different color combination and in a different shape – this particular color combination is an inspiration for future weavings. I really like the colors.
Native Songs with the Uke
Like most of the performers at the Adaka Festival in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory June 21-27, I will play a 20-minute set. I will sing Tlingit songs and my own originals accompanied by my ukelele on Saturday, June 22 at 1:45pm. Check out the line-up of performers and artists on their website. The Adaka Festival features traditional and contemporary Canadian 1st Nation performers and artists mainly from Yukon and British Columbia, with an occasional Alaskan(!).
I’ve been playing the uke a little over a year – this tool has become a spiritual/emotional life-saver – in my opinion, if you need to be “saved” in any way, this is the instrument that can help bring you a sense of balance. I think that if everyone in the world played ukelele, even if they just strummed a few chords every day and didn’t sing, that eventually, the world would have consistent peace! Yep.
As I mentioned, the Adaka Festival also features artists from the Yukon/British Columbia/Alaska region. During the Festival week of June 21-27, I will also be teaching an introduction to Chilkat weaving class along side Ann Smith who will be teaching Ravenstail, and Ann and I are spearheading another Indigenous Weavers’ Gathering . On Friday, June 21, I will also be a part of a group art exhibit featuring a Chilkat robe I am recently completing, my latest button robes, a contemporary painting, along with a few Giclee prints and my button blanket series greeting cards.
If you are in Whitehorse, Yukon, come out and visit us!
Clarissa’s Year for Chilkat Weaving
One morning in early January, I woke up thinking about all the Chilkat weavings I started a year or two (or even three(?) ago: the Chilkat robe for a couple from Seattle, the leggings for my friend Preston, a handbag for Cherri, the doll started with my daughter Lily, etc. Incomplete projects tend to nag; they drag down energy . No one likes a nag; and I surely don’t like to be dragged down. I was once a nag, but learned it didn’t do any good. Yet did any of these Chilkat weavings learn not to nag to their maker? No, because it’s not the weavings that are nagging; it’s that other part of me that’s nagging – so really I hadn’t ever given up the art of nagging – what a revelation! So, that early morning in January, I said to myself: “…this is my year for Chilkat weaving. I’m going to complete all that I started…and then some…” And I am doing so. I’m quitting the nag business!
Organized Weaver Makes Note of Thoughts

Sitting on my weaving bench I include important tools of the trade: laptop with remote, plate of scissors, needles, measure stick, and a notebook with pen
While I am weaving, I always have the necessary tools next to me to avoid having to get up from my bench; no one likes to be interrupted while in full concentration and when “on a roll.” I make sure my laptop is open to my email page, my necessary tools for tending to my weaving process are easily accessed and I have a small spiral-bound notebook and pen always at hand. This notebook allows me to immediately write down thoughts while weaving. Those thoughts can be about household and garden duties I must perform within the next day, week or month, or they could include another task to complete another project I am weaving or painting, or a reminder to contact another weaver to be included in a Weavers’ Gathering, or call the kids to remind them to send a birthday wish to their sibling. In fact, I carry one of this notebook on my person, in my purse and I place one by my bedside each night. Okay, call me a “type A” personality; am I offended? Only if I cannot make note of it!
Ravenstail Border for a Button Blanket Robe
Sue Shotridge is sewing a button robe for her husband, Tlingit artist Israel Shotridge, in time for the opening ceremonies of the Chief Shakes’ Clan House Renovation project in Wrangell, Alaska the weekend of May 3rd, 2013. They wanted something special for his button robe; this is it!

The preliminary drawing of the pattern for the border incorporating “Shaman’s Eyes” and “Bear Tracks”
The “bear tracks” pattern is an old traditional pattern; the ‘shaman’s eyes’ pattern was designed by my daughter, Lily Hope, which is a take-off on an old traditional pattern as well.

“Bear Tracks” pattern woven two ways – courtesy of the Ravenstail Weavers Guild booklet entitled “Ravenstail Weaving Patterns and Projects – Ancient and Contemporary” – can be purchased at Hearthside Books in Juneau, Alaska