Adaka Festival’s Native Art Exhibit 2013

A partial view of the annual Adaka Native Art Exhibit only held for a week during the Adaka Festival – exhibitors in this section were: Coppersmith Brian Walker, Carver Wayne Price, Weaver Lily Hope and Regalia-maker Clarissa Rizal

Charcoal on canvas 6-foot column by Clarissa Rizal next to painter, Jean Taylor

Several Yukon beadworkers’ moccasins are housed below Carver Jimmie Joseph’s masks next to Clarissa Rizal’s charcoal on canvas

Hanging up in the rafters as part of the artshow below are two Ravenstail robes woven by Ann Smith flank Clarissa Rizal’s Chilkat robe

A Weavers’ Tour Begins With a Weaving Class & Weaver’s Gathering

Yukon and Alaskan Weavers in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – June 2013 – on the Yukon River — L to R front row:  Stefanie Sidney, Crystal Rogers, Nita Clark, Clarissa Rizal, Charlene Baker, Sherri Atlin, Ann Smith —   L to R 2nd row:  Heather Callahan, Cherish Clarke, Ricky Tagaban, Pamela Adamson, Teahonna James, Diane Knopp

In the Yukon a dedicated group of people is working to preserve an ancient cultural tradition. To teach the art of Chilkat and Ravenstail weaving the past is becoming alive again and becoming a force that is weaving itself into dance, song and other cultural aspects of the people of our Northwest coast Alaska, B-C and the Yukon.

Enjoy the interview with Clarissa and visit the new robes of today….

http://www.cbc.ca/north/features/weaving-and-words/

First day of weaving class in the Elder’s Room of the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center on the banks of the Yukon River, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory

Over 20 years ago, after a gathering of Chilkat weavers, Ann Smith said she wanted to host a Gathering in her hometown of Whitehorse, Yukon — Finally, after attending Weavers’ Gatherings in Prince Rupert, Alert Bay, Sitka, Juneau, Hoonah, and Haines, with the assistance of Charlene Alexander, festival coordinator for the Adaka Festival, we made this happen in Whitehorse!

Ann demonstrates to Teahonna one of several methods on how to measure your warp for your project

Ann and I had a total of 12 new students; she taught 6 weavers interested in Ravenstail weaving and I taught 6 weavers interested in Chikat weaving.

The white board listing all the weavers in the class…

While Ricky continues to spin warp, Ann demonstrates to Georgianna and Heather how to warp the loom

Clarissa explains to Georgianna the importance of perfection in the first row of weaving, the anchor row.

Crystal assists Pamela on her fingering technique

It’s a wonderful thing when an experienced apprentice helps her fellow beginner student learn the basics of weaving.

Ricky weaves below the full moon window designed by Kwaanlin Dun artist, Justin Smith

The Elder’s Room has great ambiance for a weaving class – perfect in size of room with very good natural lighting, the glass walls dividing us from the cultural center’s hallway that provided us privacy yet the general public could watch what we were doing, AND it was the only room in the cultural center that had perfect air-conditioning during hot, muggy sunshine!

Ann demonstrates to Pamela while Diane looks on

Nita is happy that the fingering is coming so naturally for her!

12-year-old Amber Baker re-visits the weaving she began when she was 9 years old. Even though she was reluctant to do it, she agreed to take out the weaving (cuz it showed too  many “teeth”) and start all over again.

Wayne Price and Dan Shorty pay a visit during our “visiting hours”

9am to 1pm was reserved for the Weaving Class where there were no visitors allowed so we were not interrupted during instruction time – 1pm to 8pm were hours reserved for the Weavers’ Gathering open to any and all visitors and any weavers who wanted to join us during those hours

Ravenstail weaver Dan Shorty and Charlene Baker check out Sherri Atlin’s work

Teahonna James, whose family is from Klawock, Alaska is weaving her very first ever weaving in Ravenstail, making a double-sided pouch

Dan tries to help Ricky weave the side braids, while Teahonna learns what Heather just learned

Stefanie Sidney joined the class a few days after everyone else and wove like the dickens to catch up!

Crystal Rogers begins weaving her Ravenstail leggings

Vancouver artist Alano Edzerza visits Charlene Baker weaving a commissioned Ravenstail headband

Amber prepares her slipknots

Pamela and Ann inspects and congratulates Diane’s completed weaving

Happy weavers create happy weavings which when worn help create happy dancers creating happy families and communities!

Heather, Ricky and Cherish enjoy one anothers’ cozy company

Welcoming Visitors To Our Land

Dugout canoe on Lake LaBarge near Whitehorse, Yukon awaits their “invite”

Ann Smith and Clarissa Rizal will dress in their regalia to be a part of the welcoming ceremony of the canoe arrival to shore

Welcoming song for the canoe to come ashore – the ritual is symbolic of the visitors (in this case, the visitors are the council of First Nations’ annual meeting for a week from all across Canada this year held in Whitehorse) being welcomed ashore by the people of the Kwaanlin Dun Nation.

Canoe goes ashore amongst the reeds and grasses to find a natural “port.”

Photograph of the long dock after the ceremony

A fine feathered friend’s life has ended in the powerfully, beautiful landscape of Lake LaBarge

“Eagle Raven” Button Robe

“Eagle Raven Lovebirds” button blanket robe – collaboration of form line design by Preston Singletary and Clarissa Rizal seamstress (and she chose the fabrics and buttons) – Photograph by Ruth Borgfjord

Crystal Rogers from Juneau, Alaska modeled this button blanket at the DaZeTs’an Fashion Show Wednesday night, June 26th at the Adaka Festival in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory.

The robe is made of two types of woven cotton “tapestry-like” upholstery fabric, hand-appliqued with antique mother-of-pearl and abalone buttons.

Crystal Rogers does a slight dance during the fashion show just before she exit the stage – she was one of the best models because of her demure and mysterious “air” about her as she kept her chin down hiding her face from the bright stage lights – our grandparents would have been proud of her!

“Diving Whale Lovebirds” Chilkat Robe

Clarissa’s latest Chilkat robe “Diving Whale Lovebirds” danced by Wayne Price during the “Weavers’ Dance” at the Adaka Festival in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – photograph by Ken Kaushansky

Well…I finished this robe on Summer Solstice 2013 in Whitehorse, Yukon just before it was hung as part of the Northwest Coast art exhibit at the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center.   The owners of the robe rendevous-ed with me at the Festival to attend the ceremony, meet carver Wayne Price and have the robe placed in their arms.  Again, it was not easy parting from another “child.”

The following photographs show the weaving progression from end to start – yes, sounds backwards don’t it, but just wanted to give you an artistic experience of “thinking backwards!”

In the professional photographer’s studio! (and no I’m not THAT big; the shirt is just big on me…hello!

According to my weaving teacher, the late Jennie Thlunaut, who passed at the age of 96 in 1986, she said that I must NEVER show my weaving-in-progress to the owners if the robe is commissioned.  They are not to see the robe until it is completed.  I never asked “why” because it was futile, I’d be wasting my words.  To the best of my abilities, I did not, and have not, shown the progression of my robes as I have honored Jennie’s request.

Completed weaving the robe June 15th – then there were the side braids to be done – yum, yum, the side braids are the best part of weaving a Chilkat robe!

So now that I have completed the robe, and have delivered it to the rightful owners, I can show you the progression of the robe…

On the Alaska ferry from Juneau to Skagway…

Ursala weaves the side braids; Amelie “helps” too!

Close-up of how I finished the bottom yellow border

Whooooheee – finished the design field of the robe, just need to weave the borders, weave the side braids, weave the signature tie-offs, block the weaving, etc. – (a foreign language?)

One last portion to complete!

Started the form line of the last pair of eyes to weave

Close-up of weaving the borders down to match the left corner of the design field

Three-quarters complete!

A vivacious Chilkat face!

Beginning to weave the bottom of the top and bottom of the beaks – the left one is Eagle and the right one is Raven…of course!

The robe is a bit more than half-way woven….

A few weaving details….now, I have never considered myself a very good weaver, although there are many who say otherwise. In so doing and being, I can say that I am progressing at it…every time I weave I get slightly better…in ways, i get better, my dear,…in ways!

yep, the colors of this robe are brilliant…(unlike the weaver who has lost her brilliancy as she has aged…)

more details…the circles are pretty good…not too bad….not too bad!  Always pay attention to the braids…the braids are what shape the shapes…!

I can say that this Chilkat robe is one-third complete!

No we do not weave straight across; this photo just makes it LOOK like we weave straight across…!

It is still winter time…had to wear my fleece topped by my Japanese quilted jacket with my hand-sewn Ainu headband…weaving, weaving, weaving…

The loom is in the guest room where I am borrowing the space cuz my studio is way too cold to work – it’s gotten down to zero degrees out there! — The plastic transparency “templates” are clipped to the warp…

Well, if you aren’t a friend of mine on Facebook, then you haven’t seen this photo take by my son, the film-maker…

Not a good idea to weave day and night like I can.  Else you get to be a boring person; like I can be.  And then you just want to stare at everything else except the weaving…and the grand-children!  I don’t mind staring at the grandchildren!  heeeheee!

…come to think of it, my eyes rest easy and well on my grandchildren!…so nice to have this one around while weaving…a real treat!

The ravenstail border is completed – yeah!

Bright and white day today…that’s because the spirits know there’s a new robe, a new “skin” that has been “born” most recently. good medicine.

Here’s a sketch of the proposed robe. It’s a ‘Diving Whale Lovebirds”

The preliminary sketch of the Chilkat robe I’m about to start some day soon – I drafted this design just three weeks before my mother passed away…June 2011 – it took me two years to complete this weaving; of course, though I was doing all kinds of other major things as well in that time period (i.e. burying my mother, moving to Santa Fe to attend IAIA for BFA degree, commuting to Colorado to spend time with my daughter and family, an exhibit, taught a couple of classes and three different apprenticeships, not to mention travel, etc. etc. You know, it’s called an “artist’s life.” I would not recommend this lifestyle for the weak of heart…!

The “Weavers’ Dance”

Ravenstail robe “Grandmother’s Time” woven by Ann Smith, Whitehorse, Yukon danced by her son Shawn Smith, and a Chilkat robe “Diving Whale Lovebirds” woven by Clarissa Rizal, Juneau, Alaska, danced by fellow artist Wayne Price.  They were both “hired” to dance the robes with the “Weavers’ Dance” on Sunday, June 23rd during the Adaka Festival main stage.

Ann Smith carefully adjusts her son Shawn Smith’s collar of “Grandmother’s Time” Ravenstail robe

A couple days before the “coming out” of four woven robes that were in the Adaka Art Exhibit, Crystal Rogers and I were in the Elder’s room (where the weaving class was held during the Adaka Festival); I was playing with the warp stick using it like a walking cane pretending i was an old old elder – then I began to dance with it like a man holding a dance staff and wouldn’t it be fun if all of us weavers had one of these and danced with it like this – suddenly Crystal excitedly exclaimed: “…no, let’s hold it like a woman, soft and demure as if we are holding a precious item in our hand…” – we were so dead set on doing this during the “coming in” dance of the woven robes that we asked Ann Smith if her son could make enough warp sticks for all the weavers…and so was born the use of the warp sticks during the “coming out” dance of the woven robes…!

Clarissa adjusts the closure of Crystal Rogers’ “Eagle Raven” button blanket (a collaboration of two artists: design by Preston Singletary, hand-sewn by Clarissa Rizal

“Grandmother’s Time”, “Copper Child” (collaboration Lily Hope and Clarissa Rizal) and “Eagle Raven”

Front views of all three…

The following photos are of Whitehorse’s weaving class members dancing the “weavers’ dance…”

Ravenstail and Chilkat weavers with their “warp sticks” – a hand-made wooden stick with notches to measure the warp yarns for a dance robe or dance apron – these sticks were fashioned after the late Jennie Thlunaut’s warp stick

Thank you very much, Everett Smith, for crafting an additional 10 wooden warp sticks with short notice of two days so we may dance the “weavers’ dance!”

While the narrator introduces the next song, the dancers keep their backs to the audience waiting for the next dance song to begin

The “Raven” robe on the right is also designed by Preston Singeltary and sewn by Clarissa Rizal

Clarissa’s “Diving Whale Lovebirds” Chilkat robe danced by Wayne Price is dead center stage…

“Diving Whale Lovebirds” Chilkat robe and 4-piece Ravenstail ensemble “Copper Child”

“Weavers’ Dance” with our warp sticks made by Ann Smith’s son, Everett Smith – there were 13 of us – lucky number….!

“Weavers’ Dance”…

Wayne Price in Chilkat robe, Tristin Primozic in 4-piece Ravenstail ensemble, and Shawn Smith in Ravenstail robe

Tristin Primozic of Champagne and Aishihik First Nations is a member of the Wolf moeity and he is a young song leader in training with the Dahka Khwaan Juniors Dance Group.  He is wearing “Copper Child”, the 4-piece Ravenstail ensemble woven by Lily Hope and Clarissa Rizal.

After the Weavers’ Dance, outside in front of the cultural center for a photo shoot for the local newspaper

Backside of dancers with robes…the fourth robe on the far left was woven by Ann Smith, danced by Ravenstail and Chilkat weaver Charlene Baker

And thank you to all our models for dancing our robes for us:  Charlene Baker, Tristin Primozic, Shawn Smith and Wayne Price

Four robes – Two Ravenstail robes woven by Ann Smith; Chilkat robe woven by Clarissa Rizal, and child-size 4-piece child-size Ravenstail ensemble woven by Lily Hope and Clarissa

Owners of the new robe, Ken and Lauren Kaushansky with dancer Wayne Price and weaver, Clarissa Rizal

 

Collaboration With Preston Singletary

Pinning the border of the button robe – the design in the background is waiting to be cut out

Couple of years ago I asked my friend Preston Singletary if he had some images suitable for making button robes; I didn’t feel like designing any robes, I just felt like getting down to the nitty gritty and get going on sewing ’em!

Preston’s design of this robe is based on our legend “Raven Steals the Sun”, bringing light to the world.

with a wet cloth placed over the cut-out applique, the heat from the iron fuses the image to the robe body

Lily Hope helps her daughter Bette (SikiKwaan) Hope take out the basting threads

With the help of Lily and Bette in April, and later with my friend Lis Saya who helped lay out the buttons and sew them down, I finally finished this robe to this point by mid-June  (though it still needs the circle of buttons about the body).

“Raven and the Sun” is a collaboration between designer by Preston Singletary and seamstress Clarissa Rizal — the robe is not quite finished; it still needs the circle of buttons that goes around the entire body of the Raven

The robe worn by a dancer

Huna Totem 40th Anniversary Button Robe

Clarissa finalizes her button blanket design for the Huna Totem’s celebration of their 40th anniversary

Back in February, I was given a week deadline in a competition to draft up a design that reflected one of Southeast Alaska’s Native Corporation’s 40th anniversary vision statement:  “…sailing the canoe of our ancestor’s into the future…”  I don’t know if I have ever been successful at drafting up a winning design in that short amount of time, but somehow the image came very easily to me and within a day I had the proposal and design done – that’s unheard of in my experiences.

“Stitch witchery” iron-on interfacing assists in applying the cut applique to the robe body – however, this stitch witchery must have been old because the fusion to the wool fabric did not work – alas, I had to hand-baste the design down before sewing it.

The robe was presented during the Huna 40th celebration at the Cannery Point in Hoonah, Alaska on Saturday, July 27th.  Click here for the blog entry.

The unfinished robe; still needs the face in the Copper T’naa, the teeth on the shark and the “mountains”

The name of this robe is based on Huna Totem’s request:  “…sailing the canoe of our Grandfathers into the future…”  The Design explanation is as follows:

…there are four clans in Hoonah whose crests are depicted on the canoe L to R:   The Chookaneidi clan’s octopus crest, the WooshkeeTaan clan’s Shark crest, the Kaagwaantaan clan’s wolf crest and the T’akDeinTaan clan’s black-legged kitty-wake crest.  In the canoe are the Raven and the Eagle moieties each holding the Copper T’naa which represents the history, culture, wealth and arts.  The Eagle and Raven moeities each share in the responsibility of carrying our culture in the canoe of our Grandfathers’ into the future…”

What the robe looks like when it is on a body! – by the way, my  model’s name is Dan Shanks

The cool thing about this commemorative 40th-year robe is that it can be worn in ceremony by any one from the four main clans from Hoonah, AND it can be hung on the corporate walls of Huna Totem…I really like the idea of its versatility.

After laying out the buttons under my direction, Lis begins to glue down the “Mt. Fairweather range”… which completes the robe

I never got a professional shot of the completed robe, not even a snap shot of the robe – so I cannot show you the entire robe until somebody sends me a photograph!  Quick! – If you happened to be at the 40th anniversary celebration event in Hoonah and you have got a photograph of me doing the presentation, go for it and email me an image – and of course, I may want to use it in this blog entry and of course, I will give you photo credit!  Thank you!

Cooking Cedar Bark

I place up to 15 feet of a 5″ wide strip of yellow or red cedar in my 22-quart pressure cooker to cook all the sap out so I avoid sticky hands while spinning the thin strips with wool to create warp for Chilkat weaving.  Notice the tin foil “wind breaker” around the bottom edge of the pot – I learned this from my (all-too-temporary) assistant, Lis Saya

You don’t need to cook the sap out of cedar bark if you are going to weave baskets or hats, etc.  You will want to cook the sap out of the bark if you are spinning warp for your Chilkat weavings.

Set up your kitchen outside.  Use a propane two-burner hotplate.

First, oil the lid and entire inside of the pot.  (This prevents the sap from sticking heavily to your pot.)  Do not oil the gasket of the lid. (You want to avoid having the gasket slip out of place.)

Then fill pot with 3/4 amount of water, place your strip(s) of cedar in the water, cover and place weight in its position.  How much cedar do you place i this amount of water?  Use your discretion based on the size of pot and the size and amount of cedar strips – there is no hard and fast rule here.

After water begins to boil, turn heat down to a rolling simmer and let boil for at least an hour up to two hours at 10-pounds pressure.

Let out pressure; let cool down (I wait until overnight), then remove lid.

Take cedar strips out of pot and place on paper bags.

DO NOT POUR CEDAR BARK water down any internal drains (sinks, toilets, tubs, etc.).  Pour the sap outside in your driveway or in an area that you do not want anything to grow.

Let cedar completely dry out before placing in paper bag or cardboard box.  NEVER use plastic bags are containers unless of course, you know that cedar is completely thoroughly dry.  (Let’s avoid mold)..

Who Wants to Know About Hand-dyeing Chilkat Yellow Weft?

My temporary assistant Lis Saya is preparing 2-oz. skeins of weft yarn for dyeing Chilkat yellow

If you’d like to know my recipe for dyeing the Chilkat golden yellow weft, just give me a call and I’ll give it to you over the phone.  I am feeling too tired to think about placing the recipe on line here right now.  Forgive me for being lazy in this moment.

Golden yellow weft hangs to dry in the sunshine after it has been lightly washed in Ivory dish soap. When dry, we’ll put up the yarns in balls instead of leaving the yarn in skeins.

The best Chilkat gold!!!