Crystal Rogers Learns Chilkat

Crystal prepares the wool for spinning

4 days before she arrived, Crystal asked if she could spend a couple of weeks with me learning how to spin Chilkat warp and begin weaving a child-size Chilkat robe – it was spur of the moment – holy moly!  Okay, we’ll squeeze in a week before the arrival of Vanessa who is scheduled to arrive a week after Crystal.

The following are photos of Crystal’s process of preparing the cedar bark, the merino wool, spinning the two, acquiring her weaving loom and dressing her loom starting her borders.

Splitting cedar bark while tanning

Sunny work space

Proud of her very first ball of thigh-spun warp

Creating a skein of her warp on the umbrella swift, she counts a 35-yard ball ready to wash

Crystal is happy with her apron-size/child-size Chilkat robe loom, she knows she is blessed

With cotton twine, Crystal anchors down the heading cord

Using a “warp stick” fashioned after master weaver Jennie Thlunaut, Crystal continues to “dress” her loom

Weaving late into the night, Crystal has got the “weaver’s bug!” – weave till ya drop!

Crystal weaves the first anchoring row and first rows of white

The beauty of virgin warp on a virgin weaving loom!

Honing her skills in applying Jennie Thlunaut’s unique fingering technique, Crystal glides through the warp weaving the black border

Turning the corners using Jennie’s fingering technique allows the weaver to turn the corners gracefully

Chilkat weaving instructor Clarissa Rizal with two apprentices, Crystal Rogers from Juneau, Alaska and Vanessa Morgan from Kincolith, British Columba, Canada

The Adarka Festival

Alaskan Tlingit carver Wayne Price (red shirt) leads the carving of a red cedar totem pole to commemorate the survivors of the missionary schools in Yukon Territory

I video taped various performances including the DahkaKwaan Danders, the canoe ceremony, and an interview with Wayne Price and the totem pole, however, for some reason just my still photos transferred but none of my videos would transfer to my computer.  Alas, I was terribly disappointed.  But, I have a few photo images here to console me; at least I have these!

The Kwanlin Dun Cultural Center entrance, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory

Out back of the cultural center, a wooden platform graces the banks of the mighty headwaters of the Yukon River

Directly behind the cultural center there's a large firepit circled by concrete seating stepping down to the wooden platform on the Yukon

 

Chilkat & Ravenstail weaver, Ann Smith stands in front of the painting created by her youngest son, Justin Smith

Ravenstail & Chilkat weaver Charlene Baker demonstrates Chilkat on her portable loom

Approximately 40 artists mainly from Yukon Territory displayed and demonstrated their work during the Artist Market

Tents were erected just in case of rain - there were food booths, demonstrating artists, workshops, etc.

Men in Cool Hats: Copper smith Brian Smith and silversmith/silkscreen artist Alano Edzerza

Artists taking a break - L to R: Brien Smith, William Callahan, Sean Smith, Dustin Johnson, Alano Edzerza, Crystal Rogers, Ann Smith and her grandson, Tyrone

Ann and Brien Smith stand next to their artwork displayed in the cultural center's new gallery space

Cherri & Wayne Price and Ann & Brien Smith stand before an historical display "back to the river" which was the theme of this year's Adarka Festival - the display shows Ann's "Grandmother's Time" Ravenstail robe, her mother drying fish, and her son Justin in the newly-carved red cedar canoe

The New Taku Dancers from Atlin, British Columbia

Button robes of the New Taku Dancers

Wolf Clan member and Chilkat/Ravenstail weaver Debra Carlick - she adorns the carved wolf hat created by her husband Wayne Carlick

Leader of the New Taku Dancers Wayne Carlick is adorned by a Chilkat headdress woven by his wife Debra Michel Carlick

With all the money our Native corporations have generated since 1971 (over 40 years), I am reminded that Juneau does not have a cultural center.  Sure we have the ANB Hall, sure we have the Sealaska, Goldbelt, and Huna Totem corporate offices, sure we have the T&HCC offices, sure we have the T&HCC community center at Salmon Creek, however none of these come close to the cultural center organized by a grassroots group of local indigenous peoples in the Whitehorse area, whom 20 years later have a place that is specifically theirs on the homeland’s river bank.

Goes to show you that money does not necessarily do all the talking…takes a group of those who walk their talk, that are earnest, diligent, committed individuals with a strong vision to address and create a modern place to educate and perpetuate the modern culture of the indigenous people – it allows the rest of the world that we still exist and are alive and well!

Leaving Rainy Juneau for Sunnier Skies

Dorsal fin of a Killerwhale during the sail from Juneau to Haines, Alaska

Crystal invited me to come with her to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory to meet up with a friend of hers.  I knew about the grand opening of the new Cultural Center in Whitehorse, so I took her up on her offer.  I had four days to prepare for the trip with lots of deadlines to meet before leaving – it was good incentive to get the stuff done to take a much needed “working vacation” from Juneau’s consistent rainy weather of 45 degrees!

Bow of the MV Matanuska

I anticipated good weather as soon as we would come into Haines’ territory, about three hours north of Juneau.  Sure enough, I could see blue skies up ahead!

Crystal Rogers weaves Ravenstail in the cafeteria of the MV Matanuska

Like many Chilkat and Ravenstail weavers of the past 30 years, Crystal Rogers packed up her loom to weave aboard the ferry.  Four hours to Haines is ample time to weave a couple of inches!

deck of the MV Matanuska as we pass the lighthouse in Upper Lynn Canal

Pouring rain in Juneau, even just an hour out of Juneau the weather improves!  Cloudy but not raining!  whooohooo!

Crystal enjoys the cedar bark weaving talents of Heather Callahan's cape

Yukon artist Heather Callahan is a regalia-maker who was on board completing her woven cedar bark cape embellished with dentallium shells, abalone buttons, leather and Hawaiian grasses woven in as well! — you just never know who will be traveling with you on board the Alaskan ferries!

Heather models her cape trimmed with beaver fur

Davidson Glacier in the Chilkat Mountain Range

"Shanks and Rizal" (alias)peaks of the Chilkat Mountain Range

Approaching Haines, Alaska - see the tourship docked in front of Ft. Seward?

Always blue skies in Haines' wake

Crystal catches wild water

Mouth of the Chilkat Valley River

View of the Chilkat River and mountains from a house I would love to buy, or at least rent!

Driivng the highway from Haines, Alaska to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory

Brown Bear on the side of the highway

Black bear on side of highway just a half hour from the brown bear we first saw

Cedar Bark Weaving During Teslin’s Celebration 2011

Instructor Debra Carlick demonstrates her cedar bark tricks-of-the-trade to fellow cedar bark instructor Lily Hope as Dan Shorty and Jane Smarch pay close attention

Debra Carlick and Lily Hope taught a cedar bark weaving class held during Teslin’s “Celebration 2011” in Teslin, Yukon Territory, July 25-30, 2011.  The class began with 4 students; by the end of the week, there were 15 students!

The weaving classes were held in the Boat House on the shores of Teslin Lake at the Teslin Cultural Center

A nice shot of the weavers' room with an antique wooden boat in the Boat House

A view from the center of the Boat House looking out towards Teslin Lake

Yeah for the gift of cedar and all those willing to keep up with the traditions!

Splitting the bark

Separate bags of soaked cedar helped identify students' prepared materials

While weaving cedar bark, we must keep our materials damp and supple for ease of workability

 

The youthful generation joined the class

 

Rhonda demonstrates while enthusiastic visitors and classmate Dan look on

Cedar bark instructor Debra Carlick with new student Teslin elder Jane Smarch

 

Many visitors and enthusiasts of cedar bark weaving!

Tlingit dancers from Juneau, Alaska visit the class too

The serene excitement of completing his hat!

Her completed cedar headband trimmed out with mother-of-pearl and abalone buttons

Charlene Baker's composition of the "Completion Song" sung each time a student completed their Ravenstail or cedar bark weaving

Dan Shorty sports his cedar bark headband (made in this class) with weaving instructors Lily Hope and Clarissa Rizal sporting their hand-sewn Ainu headbands

Chilkat and Ravenstail weaver Amber Baker is on her way to completing her cedar bark hat

 

Intro to Ravenstail Weaving at Teslin’s Celebration 2011

Charlene concentrates on beginning the next row - her very first Ravenstail weaving!

While researching the old Chilkat robes in the museums around the Northern Hemisphere, artist/weaver/author Cheryl Samuel also came across the Ravenstail style of weaving.  Her first Ravenstail weaving class was held at the Totem Center in Ketchikan, Alaska in November 1989; I attended that first class.  Since then, whenever anyone asked me about learning Ravenstail weaving, I’d recommend Cheryl.   However,  22 years later, I conducted my very first official Ravenstail weaving class in Teslin, Yukon Territory (Canada) during the week of their cultural “Celebration 2011” July 25 – 30, 2011.

During Teslin's "Celebration 2011" the class had many visitors checking out the weavers' tedious and wonderful work - We wove a small Ravenstail pouch in 3 days

Charlene demonstrates creating the corners to her classmates

Dan Shorty and Charlene Baker with their completed Ravenstail weavings - (I apologize for not having a shot of the entire class with their completed weavings!)

Ainu elder inspects Rose's recently-completed Ravenstail pouch with Wayne and Debra Carlick

During the class, a group of Ainu visitors from Japan were guest performers at Teslin’s Celebration.  Although we there was a language barrier, we used lots of gestures and facial expressions to communicate the similarities of our spinning and weaving techniques.

The Ainu spin their warp exactly like ours with two strands of fiber with the exception that they spin in mid-air using their thumbs and we spin our warp on our thigh

 

Ainu performers from Japan with Cedar bark weaving instructors Debra Carlick (Atlin, B.C.) and Lily Hope (Juneau, AK) and Ravenstail instructor Clarissa Rizal

Spinning Chilkat in Yakutat

Strips of sap-free cedar bark in the foreground - students braving an adventure of spinning Chilkat warp!

Sunday night, a few hours after the tail end of the 1st Annual Yakutat Tern Festival, 18 women began to learn the art of spinning Chilkat warp of yellow cedar bark and merino wool.  Traditionally, we use mountain goat wool, however, mountain goat wool is a rare find these days and merino wool is the closest fiber to match that of the mountain goat.  The class began at 6pm and was only supposed to be 2 hours, but we didn’t get out of the classroom until 11:30pm that night when Evelyn finally broke the spell and said:  “Gee, I’ve got to go home now…”  Suddenly, all of us realized it was way past our bedtime!  That’s what happens when we’re having too much fun!

A class of 18 students making their first attempts at spinning Chilkat warp - L to R: Carol Pate, MaryAnn Porter, Angel Harry, Evelyn Dierick, Carolyn Donohue, Eva Sensmeier, Victoria Demmert, Lois Dworshak, Yvonne Baker, ,Anne Pollnow, Shirley Cain, Joy Klushkan, (Maka Monture & Alison Bremner obscured), Judy Ramos, Penney James, and Gloria Benson

Some of the students are weavers of Ravenstail learned from Cheryl Samuels who revived the art of Ravenstail weaving back in the late 80’s.  Ravenstail warp is not spun with cedar bark; Chilkat warp is.  Someday, these students want to learn the art of Chilkat weaving, and with the eagerness of learning how to spin their own warp, I can tell these women will be persistent about learning Chilkat weaving.

Thin strips of yellow cedar bark ready to spin with the wool - silky when wet, rough when dry

L to R: Joy Klushkan, Maka Monture, Alison Bremner, Judy Ramos

The youngest student in the class, Angel Harry, organizes her strips of cedar bark and her wool roving to prepare for the next step - the actual spinning on her thigh!

Many thanks to MaryAnn Porter who helped organize this event and brought the class members together, to Carol Pate for the use of her Home Economics classroom and to all the students who braved the adventure of spinning Chilkat warp!

Extracting Sap From Cedar Bark

Nice heavy-duty pressure cooker

Cedar bark basket weavers need not cook the sap out of the bark as part of their preparation of their materials.  Those who are Chilkat weavers need to cook the sap out of the cedar bark before spinning the bark and wool to make their Chilkat warp.   In the olden days, a large pot full of water filled with cedar bark strips was placed on a fire outside.  The water boiled for an hour or two, then dumped and clean water added and brought to a boil.  This procedure continued for a week until there was not a whole lot of sap mixed with the water.  This is a long procedure; I did it this way for several years until (the late) Agnes Bellinger, daughter to my weaving teacher (the late) Jennie Thlunaut, taught me how to do it the modern method:

1)  With a paper towel, rub the interior and the lid of a large pressure cooker with vegetable oil; 2) Fill the pressure cooker with 2/3 water; 3) Add just enough cedar bark strips to fit into the pot comfortably – do not stuff the pot full; 4) Cover, bring pot to a boil – let boil at 10 pounds pressure for at least one hour, at the most two hours; 5) Release steam; 6) Open lid, let cool down up to an hour; 7)  Find a place outdoors where you do not mind sap water being dumped.  Do Not dump sap water on your lawn, in a flower bed or where trees (other than cedar) are growing.  NEVER dump sap water down your drains or in the toilet.  Follow these procedures…

Strips of cedar bark awaiting to be lifted out of their sappy water

With a stick, lift out cedar bark strips from the sap water and place on news paper.  (Note:  if you use paper towels, there will be a tendency for the paper towel to stick to the bark).

Rule of Thumb:  Always take the bark out of the water before dumping the sap water.

Lifting cedar bark out of the sap water

Find a place to dump the sap water.  Do Not dump sap water on your lawn, in a flower bed or where trees (other than cedar) are growing.  NEVER dump sap water down your drains or in the toilet.

Dumping sap water

8)  With a paper towel or rag, immediately wipe all the sap residue from the interior of your pressure cooker including the lid – then wash with pressure cooker with soap and water

Your cedar bark should be free of most of its sap, ready to be split into fine silky strips for spinning with wool to create Chilkat warp.

9)  Store your bark in paper bags; never plastic bags nor plastic containers unless you know for sure that your bark is completely dry.

Happy sappy-free bark!