“Diving Whale Lovebirds” Chilkat Robe

Clarissa’s latest Chilkat robe “Diving Whale Lovebirds” danced by Wayne Price during the “Weavers’ Dance” at the Adaka Festival in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – photograph by Ken Kaushansky

Well…I finished this robe on Summer Solstice 2013 in Whitehorse, Yukon just before it was hung as part of the Northwest Coast art exhibit at the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center.   The owners of the robe rendevous-ed with me at the Festival to attend the ceremony, meet carver Wayne Price and have the robe placed in their arms.  Again, it was not easy parting from another “child.”

The following photographs show the weaving progression from end to start – yes, sounds backwards don’t it, but just wanted to give you an artistic experience of “thinking backwards!”

In the professional photographer’s studio! (and no I’m not THAT big; the shirt is just big on me…hello!

According to my weaving teacher, the late Jennie Thlunaut, who passed at the age of 96 in 1986, she said that I must NEVER show my weaving-in-progress to the owners if the robe is commissioned.  They are not to see the robe until it is completed.  I never asked “why” because it was futile, I’d be wasting my words.  To the best of my abilities, I did not, and have not, shown the progression of my robes as I have honored Jennie’s request.

Completed weaving the robe June 15th – then there were the side braids to be done – yum, yum, the side braids are the best part of weaving a Chilkat robe!

So now that I have completed the robe, and have delivered it to the rightful owners, I can show you the progression of the robe…

On the Alaska ferry from Juneau to Skagway…

Ursala weaves the side braids; Amelie “helps” too!

Close-up of how I finished the bottom yellow border

Whooooheee – finished the design field of the robe, just need to weave the borders, weave the side braids, weave the signature tie-offs, block the weaving, etc. – (a foreign language?)

One last portion to complete!

Started the form line of the last pair of eyes to weave

Close-up of weaving the borders down to match the left corner of the design field

Three-quarters complete!

A vivacious Chilkat face!

Beginning to weave the bottom of the top and bottom of the beaks – the left one is Eagle and the right one is Raven…of course!

The robe is a bit more than half-way woven….

A few weaving details….now, I have never considered myself a very good weaver, although there are many who say otherwise. In so doing and being, I can say that I am progressing at it…every time I weave I get slightly better…in ways, i get better, my dear,…in ways!

yep, the colors of this robe are brilliant…(unlike the weaver who has lost her brilliancy as she has aged…)

more details…the circles are pretty good…not too bad….not too bad!  Always pay attention to the braids…the braids are what shape the shapes…!

I can say that this Chilkat robe is one-third complete!

No we do not weave straight across; this photo just makes it LOOK like we weave straight across…!

It is still winter time…had to wear my fleece topped by my Japanese quilted jacket with my hand-sewn Ainu headband…weaving, weaving, weaving…

The loom is in the guest room where I am borrowing the space cuz my studio is way too cold to work – it’s gotten down to zero degrees out there! — The plastic transparency “templates” are clipped to the warp…

Well, if you aren’t a friend of mine on Facebook, then you haven’t seen this photo take by my son, the film-maker…

Not a good idea to weave day and night like I can.  Else you get to be a boring person; like I can be.  And then you just want to stare at everything else except the weaving…and the grand-children!  I don’t mind staring at the grandchildren!  heeeheee!

…come to think of it, my eyes rest easy and well on my grandchildren!…so nice to have this one around while weaving…a real treat!

The ravenstail border is completed – yeah!

Bright and white day today…that’s because the spirits know there’s a new robe, a new “skin” that has been “born” most recently. good medicine.

Here’s a sketch of the proposed robe. It’s a ‘Diving Whale Lovebirds”

The preliminary sketch of the Chilkat robe I’m about to start some day soon – I drafted this design just three weeks before my mother passed away…June 2011 – it took me two years to complete this weaving; of course, though I was doing all kinds of other major things as well in that time period (i.e. burying my mother, moving to Santa Fe to attend IAIA for BFA degree, commuting to Colorado to spend time with my daughter and family, an exhibit, taught a couple of classes and three different apprenticeships, not to mention travel, etc. etc. You know, it’s called an “artist’s life.” I would not recommend this lifestyle for the weak of heart…!

Organized Weaver Makes Note of Thoughts

Sitting on my weaving bench I include important tools of the trade: laptop with remote, plate of scissors, needles, measure stick, and a notebook with pen

While I am weaving, I always have the necessary tools next to me to avoid having to get up from my bench; no one likes to be interrupted while in full concentration and when “on a roll.”  I make sure my laptop is open to my email page, my necessary tools for tending to my weaving process are easily accessed and I have a small spiral-bound notebook and pen always at hand.  This notebook allows me to immediately write down thoughts while weaving.  Those thoughts can be about household and garden duties I must perform within the next day, week or month, or they could include another task to complete another project I am weaving or painting, or a reminder to contact another weaver to be included in a Weavers’ Gathering, or call the kids to remind them to send a birthday wish to their sibling.   In fact, I carry one of this notebook on my person, in my purse and I place one by my bedside each night.  Okay, call me a “type A” personality; am I offended?  Only if I cannot make note of it!

Rasmuson Foundation Grant Awards – Spring 2014

5 Tlingits each received a Rasmuson artist award including (L to R): Ricky Tagaban, Nahaan, Teri Rofkar, Clarissa Rizal and Norman Jackson

Today, 36 Alaskan artists received a Rasmuson Foundation award; check out the award ceremony at:  http://new.livestream.com/rasmusonfoundation/iaa2013

I will be using the funds to help support me while I do several projects this year all having to do with Chilkat weaving, including the following:  teaching an introductory Chilkat weaving workshop and spearheading the Indigenous Weavers’ Gathering and my art exhibit all at the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center in Whitehorse, Yukon; teaching apprenticeship in artist-in-residence in Haines, Alaska; helping weavers in Juneau, Alaska to begin weaving a Chilkat or Ravenstail robe in time for Celebration 2014; begin weaving my “Resilience” Chilkat robe, begin weaving my child-size Chilkat robe; and making the Chilkat weaving tour of Southeast Alaska and British Columbia down to Seattle, Washington this coming Fall.

The monetary support from this Rasmuson grant is invaluable for a (more than) full-time artist like myself.  I have come to admit, my entire life is about creating art.  And any and all monetary support is such a plus!  Thank you, Rasmuson!

Ravenstail Border for a Button Blanket Robe

The completed Ravenstail border for Israel Shotridge’s button blanket robe

Sue Shotridge is sewing a button robe for her husband, Tlingit artist Israel Shotridge, in time for the opening ceremonies of the Chief Shakes’ Clan House Renovation project in Wrangell, Alaska the weekend of May 3rd, 2013.  They wanted something special for his button robe; this is it!

The preliminary drawing of the pattern for the border incorporating “Shaman’s Eyes” and “Bear Tracks”

The “bear tracks” pattern is an old traditional pattern; the ‘shaman’s eyes’ pattern was designed by my daughter, Lily Hope, which is a take-off on an old traditional pattern as well.

“Bear Tracks” pattern woven two ways – courtesy of the Ravenstail Weavers Guild booklet entitled “Ravenstail Weaving Patterns and Projects – Ancient and Contemporary” – can be purchased at Hearthside Books in Juneau, Alaska

Close-up of the “bear tracks” on top with “shaman’s eyes” below

Clarissa’s completed Ravenstail border on the weaving loom in front of the Chilkat robe she is presently weaving

The completed border will be attached to the button robe that Sue Shotridge is finishing for her husband, Israel – in time for the dedication ceremony of the Chief Shakes’ clan house renovation next weekend of May 3rd in Wrangell, Alaska

Chilkat Tricks-of-theTrade: “Fast-Black Weavers”

 

Above shows the texture of a “Fast-black” weave over three warp ends instead of two or four

Jennie Thlunaut would often use 4-ply yarn to weave just the yellow and black borders of her Chilkat robes.  This enabled the weaving of the borders to be completed in half the amount of time when using the standard 2-ply yarn.  However, I do not like the thickness of the weave, yet I wanted the weaving of the borders to go a bit quicker.  So I “invented” (or at least thought that I invented) what I came to find out is called the “fast-black” weavers.

In the black border of the Chilkat robe, nstead of weaving over every two warp ends, I weave over 3 warp ends.

Years ago when I completed my first Chilkat robe for her uncle, my friend (and weaving student), Donna C., noticed that my black border had a different-looking texture to it.  So being the inquisitive and fine weaver that she is, she carefully took a look at my weave and exclaimed “Hey, you are one of those fast-black weavers…I’ve seen this kind of technique in some of the old robes from our area and other places…!”

Really?  I thought to myself,…and chucks, I thought I was doing something unique!  Ha, I am reminded once again “there is nothing new under the sun”  —   if it has been thought of, it has been done!

 

The Inspiration That Lead to Weaving Chilkat Robes

Clarissa and Ann Smith enjoy one anothers’ company at the Grand Opening of the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center during the annual Adaka Festival, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – 2012

Whenever I begin weaving a Chilkat robe, I give thanks to Ann Smith, Kwaanlin Dun Wolf Clan from Whitehorse, Yukon Territory.  I am remembering a life-turning conversation and experience I had with her.   While it is true Jennie Thlunaut taught me how to weave Chilkat, and I will forever be thankful for the gift Jennie entrusted to me; it was Ann who inspired me to weave Chilkat robes.

In 1992, during a month-long Chilkat Weavers’ Gathering hosted by Darlene See, Ann was beginning the weaving of her first robe; she had the top 6 inches or so of the border completed.  I hadn’t woven a Chilkat robe yet.  At the time, I had no desire to weave Chilkat robes; I imagined myself on the path of weaving smaller pieces that accentuated modern-day clothing – yokes, cuffs, collars, lapels, etc.

I asked Ann why she wanted to weave robes at a time when it seemed like people didn’t appreciate them, much less even know how much time and dedication this type of weaving takes.  She replied calmly and quietly “…Clarissa…it’s like this…we have to re-educate our people of not just the design and technique of weaving,…we have to educate them of the value…we have lost our knowledge of this art form and we have to gain back so much more than just that…”   I added with a big sigh:  “…well, Ann, that is a big task for us to tackle, don’t you think…?”  To which she replied:  “…well, that’s a choice we make.  We are at a place in our lives where we can make that difference.  What better choice to make than to be of service to our people who need this kind of strength in our lives…”

I asked her about working on a weaving that takes at least a year to make; like why would anyone want to work on something that took so long to make?  Ann added:  “…it’s the spirit of the thing…it’s the feeling that comes over me as I weave…it’s like this time-less connection of time immemorial that is happening at the same time…it feels as though all my relations are here with me, as though every Chilkat weaver that ever lived is standing behind me as I weave, watching, guiding and supporting me…”  Ann motioned for me to sit down and weave on her robe.  (Now that I have woven several Chilkat and Ravenstail robes, when a weaver invites you to weave on her robe, THAT is an honor!)  I wove a few stitches on the border of her robe, maybe a total of 10 inches…when suddenly, I felt a power come over me, I felt a presence of many but I could not place my finger on it…I experienced the essence of what Ann spoke of!

Ann apprenticed with me in Chilkat weaving from 1992 to 1996.  She is one of the most finest weavers I’ve ever known.  Her finery too is woven in the manner in which she lives her life and guides her family and people.  Over the years, I have sought her counsel in matters of relationships, art and business.  She lead me to weave Chilkat robes; it changed my life in many more ways than one.  Gunalcheesh, Ann!

Yellow Cedar vs. Red Cedar in Chilkat Warp

Yellow cedar (approximately) 1/8″ strips – the color darkens to the like of red cedar because the sap is cooked out of the cedar in order to spin with the wool

A new student of Chilkat asked me a very good question:  does it matter if we spin our Chilkat warp with yellow or red cedar bark strips?  Is there a significant difference?

Yes, it does matter if we use yellow or red.   However, the option is up to the weaver.  And sometimes a spinner/weaver does not have a choice because of availability.

Yellow cedar is more pliable and supple than red.  The yellow cedar and wool spin up smoothly for Chilkat warp.  Some of us will use the red IF we do not have yellow available.  The red does not split as evenly or smoothly as yellow.  Warp with red cedar is a bit more stiff than warp with yellow (of course too this depends on the wool/bark ratio).

Split cedar strands hang alongside prepared wool roving on an antique drying rack – ready for spinning Chilkat warp!

You will notice red cedar used in the old Chilkat robes.  These robes have a bit more “body” than those robes woven with yellow cedar warp.  Like I mentioned, the preference is up to the spinner/weaver, and the whether or not the spinner/weaver has a choice in the availability of red or yellow cedar.

 

Storing Cedar Strips

Bundles of yellow and red cedar

Hang cedar to dry THOROUGHLY.  Do not attempt to store until the bundles are completely dry.  Depending on your climate, time of year and moisture in the air, drying time may take a couple of days to a couple of weeks.  If you must place in a bag, use a paper bag at first.  Always store in paper bag and not in plastic bag.  You can use a plastic bag AFTER the cedar is completely dry!

Why am I stressing using the words THOROUGHLY and AFTER?

AVOID MOLD!

IF mold has set in to your cedar, check to see the depth of the mold.  IF the mold has completely invaded the cedar through and through, then I would not use it for anything!  IF the mold has only marred the surface of the cedar, then immediately soak the cedar bundles in vinegar water!  Add approximately 1 tablespoon of vinegar to 2 gallons of water, immerse the cedar completely weighted down by a heavy bowl, and let it sit for an entire day before rinsing with warm water several times.  Then let cedar bundles air dry THOROUGHLY!!!

If you’ve allowed your cedar to get moldy once, you will NOT ALLOW the next harvest of cedar to mold again!

Estimating the Amount of Warp Needed for Chilkat or Ravenstail Weavings

 

Skeins of Ravenstail warp

Depending on the size of your robe, apron, leggings, etc., the following are the AVERAGE amounts needed for projects in either Ravenstail or Chilkat weavings:

Pouch ……………………            30 yards

Leggings ……………….            60 yards (both leggings)

Apron …………………..            150 yards

Blanket …………………            800 to 1000 yards

(and for Chilkat robe, add 200 yards for the side braids)

 

To determine the amount of warp needed for any project:

To work out the amount of warp you need for a project, use the following equation.  First decide what size of piece you want to weave  (Remember to give yourself a little extra length so you have enough to trim the ends straight.  On a weaving without fringe, add at least 3” to the finished length so that you can work the bottom rows easily.

 

The Equation:

–       Width of piece x number of warp ends per inch = total number of warp ends

–       Length of piece x number of warp ends = number of inches needed

–       Divide total number of inches needed by 36 (# of inches in a yard) and the resulting amount is the number of yards you will need for your piece.

 

Example:

Width of piece = 30”

You will use 10 (epi) ends-per-inch warp

Length of piece = 18”

So 30” x 10” warp ends-to-the-inch = 300 warp ends

300 warp ends x 18” long = 5400 inches of warp

5400 inches divided by 36” (in a yard) = 150 yards

You will need 150 yards for the project.

Need warp but you don’t want to spin your own?  Just a reminder, I’ve got a couple of friends who are spinning both Chilkat and Ravenstail warp for us!  You may place your order any time…!

Chilkat/Ravenstail Weavers’ Gathering in Whitehorse

Hans Chester (in the background) brought out a Chilkat robe in a protected container to show to the 2003 Chilkat Weavers’ Gathering of 2003 including, L to R: Shgen George, Catrina Mitchell, Pat Walker, the late Elaine Etukeok, elder Bessie Coolie, Yarrow Vaara, Darlene See and Liana Wallace – July 2003

I am happy to announce a Chilkat/Ravenstail Weavers’ Gathering in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory held during the fabulous Adaka Festival at the new Kwaan Lin Dun Cultural Center on the Yukon River June 21-26, 2013.  The Festival program includes:  a gallery exhibition, artist demonstration tent, traditional and contemporary Indigenous music and dance, fashion, workshops, cultural presentations and more.  Festival coordinators are currently working on this year’s line-up however you may check out last year’s information on the week-long Adaka Festival on their website at:   http://www.adakafestival.ca/

Clarissa Rizal and Darlene See – the best part about the Weavers’ Gatherings is the sharing of laughter…it’s real good Chilkat medicine!

The Chilkat/Ravenstail Weavers’ Gathering is a wonderful venue where weavers from all levels of skill congregate to share in techniques, tricks-of-the-trade, establish life-long friends and gain spiritual and emotional support just by being together!   Past Gatherings have been held in Hoonah, Juneau, Sitka, Haines, Alert Bay, Prince Rupert, and Pagosa Springs.  We are excited to be hosted in Whitehorse.  Chilkat and Ravenstail weaver, Ann Smith, Wolf Clan of the Kwaan Lin Dun people in Whitehorse, will be our local weaver  “ambassador.”

Ann Smith begins weaving a Ravenstail robe while a Navajo weaver looks on – she is demonstrating weaving at the Heard Museum’s Indian Art Fair & Market – March 2003

The Gathering  will be held in the Cultural Center’s Elder’s Room kitty-corner on the left from the main hall where all the festival performances will be held.  The room is all glass allowing an ample amount of natural light.

The Adaka Festival Co-Executive Producer, Charlene Alexander is very excited about hosting the Weavers’ Gathering as part of their festival activities this year.  Currently, Charlene is working on finding a large house where all of us may stay, and/or depending on number of participants, she will find locals who are willing to host us.  However, if you need your space and privacy, there are several hotels and motels available, and I would suggest you book sooner rather than later.

As in the past, each weaver is responsible for their transportation to and from the Gathering.  If you want grant assistance, applications for Alaskan residents may be obtained at the Alaska State Council on the Arts and the Rasmuson Foundation are due in just three weeks this coming March 1st.   Also the New England Foundation for the Arts’ Native Arts Program has a travel grant with the stipulation that they must receive your application 2 months before travel date.  It’s a fairly simple application and these people are helpful and generous.  (In the past four years, I have applied and received this travel grant twice.)  Because I am not Canadian, I am not familiar with the Canadian grants available, but I KNOW they are out there!  Please do whatever it takes to help one another out in attending this wonderful Festival and Gathering!

If you are traveling by car, think about  coordinating your travel plans with other weavers, just in case several of you want to car pool a drive from Haines or Skagway up to Whitehorse or a carpool from British Columbia.  Spread the word about this Gathering!

You may take part for the entire week, or just for a few days or weekend – it’s up to your time and dime.

Bring whatever project you have on your loom, however, if you do not have a project and would like to begin one, gather your materials together to begin one.  At past Gatherings, there is always someone who will assist you.

I will be conducting a weaving workshop during the Adaka Festival; I will mainly focus on teaching beginner students, however, if you want to brush up on your skills or obtain tricks-of-the-trade, you are welcome to attend.

If you need warp to begin your new project, you may place your order with me; I formed the Warped Bank, a team of people who spend part of their time spinning Chilkat and Ravenstail warp!!

If you have any questions about the Adaka Festival, please contact Charlene Alexander – her email address is:  calexander@northwestel.net

If you have any questions, suggestions, concerns, etc. about the Weavers’ Gathering, please contact me via email at:  clarissa@www.clarissarizal.com

I know many of us have time constraints due to jobs, family, fishing, etc.   Just remember, you are not required to attend the Gathering during the entire week of the Festival; you may attend for a day or two if that is all your schedule allows.

We look forward to seeing you at the Gathering and Festival!