Aug 4, 2013 | Adventures of Rear-Mirror Rissy, Class Act, Honoring Others, North Tide, Tlingit Culture Accentuated |
Flanked by Crystal and Clarissa’s Chilkat weaving looms, Teahonna James weaves on her Chilkat headdress in the upstairs room of the Sheldon Museum in Haines, Alaska
The Sheldon Museum, though small and cozy in comparison to many museums about the country, has quite the collection and display on Chilkat weaving. In fact, for the first time ever, the weaving exhibit included Tlingit language weaving terms! I have posted them on a separate blog entry; click here to the link.
Teahonna quietly weaves in the room surrounded by “artifacts” – yet to us, they are “relatives” – they are “related” to us in some form or another, whether it be a tool used by our ancestors, or a map carried by a visitor, or a robe woven by our teacher – there is relativity to us
For several years, I thought it a good thing to learn to speak the weaving terms in our Tlingit language. I wished I had asked Jennie to teach me the weaving terms but I was too young to even know what to ask. I watched a documentary on a dugout canoe carved on an island in Lake LaBarge in the Whitehorse area; at one point during the completion ceremony of the canoe, Lance Twitchell a young speaker of Tlingit who taught himself the language not even 10 years ago, who is now an assistant professor at the University of Alaska Southeast, spoke so eloquently in our Native tongue that even though I didn’t know what he was saying, hearing the language in that moment immediately brought tears to my eyes – he spoke as if he were an elder who has returned to us only to find remnants of a language almost obliterated and he alone with a couple of others are working hard to bring it back. Lance looked as if he carried this “weight” upon his shoulders. In that moment, I told myself that when I return to Haines and live there, I will learn my language, and I will begin with the weaving terms so that I may teach it to my students.
Do all Chilkat weavers have long hair? Many do. Clarissa and Crystal have kept their long hair – a trademark of many Tlingit women before the Westerners arrival.
The two Chilkat robes in the background were woven by the last of the traditional Chilkat weavers, the late Jennie Thlunaut; and to the left of the robes, the Ravenstail robe was woven by Lani Strong Hotch from Klukwan
In the left behind Crystal and Clarissa, the small child-size Chilkat robe was woven by Jennie Thlunaut – come to think of it, this may have been her very last Chilkat robe before she passed in July 1986
Because of such beautiful, warm weather, we agreed to demonstrate weaving nearby the totem pole carvers on the last day outside the front entrance to the Sheldon Museum
Nathan Jackson (r) visits Jim Heaton, the master carver of this particular pole (who isn’t pictured but standing to the left), and sculpture artist Matthew Hincman – in the background are singer/composer William Wasden from Alert Bay, B.C. and leader/singer/drummer of the Dahka Kwaan Dancers from Whitehorse, Y.T., Marilyn Jensen
Except for the Swiss-made chisel, these are hand-made carver’s tools
Teahonna spinning warp – She is trying to meet her goal of 300 yards of Chilkat warp so she too can begin weaving a child-size Chilkat robe.
L to R: William Wasden, Marilyn Jensen, William’s nephew Mark, Clarissa Rizal, Crystal Rogers, Matthew Hincman, Megan Jensen,Jim Heaton, Jim’s carving apprentice Joe (?), Nathan Jackson, and Jim Simard
On the last day of our demonstration, there suddenly was a congregation of familiar visitors and friends who “happened to be in town” – at our request, William Wasden sang a couple of compositions in honor of weaving and in honor of the carvers, especially in honor of local master carver, Nathan Jackson.
After a wonderful last day, we wished we had been demonstrating our weaving outside the other two previous days; we wondered how many other folks we would have reached had we been more exposed.
We wove outside way past the Museum’s closing hours until the sun went behind Mt. Ripinsky
Chilkat weaving has become a way of life. I see how it has shaped my world views, my connections to people, places and things; it has even made me philosophize more so than ever! haha! I see all the relativity of things via Chilkat. It is something that I want to share with our people. As with all of us, our time here is limited. I am a busy woman, constantly. I am one of a few who makes the time and energy to teach our women. I want to help bring up the standard of internal living within the minds and hearts of our women. I have experienced the gift it has brought me and how it has changed me internally. Chilkat weaving provides an internal strength I had no idea existed. I want our women to experience this internal strength. When we strengthen our women, we strengthen the bond of our relationships. If during her status as a Chilkat weaver that her relationship with her partner goes awry, possibly the integrity of her partner did not match with the strength of Chilkat weaving. When we strengthen the woman, it is like a rippling effect; the power moves out like a water dropping into the ocean…the weaving strengthens the relationship which in turns strengthen the family unit which in turns strengthens the community, which then strengthens the nation…and the world!
Thank you to my apprentices, Crystal Rogers, Teahonna James, Vanessa Morgan, and the new “groupie” Stefanie Sidney, for coming along for the “ride” – it’s been quite the experience and treat! Let’s do this again! Truly, what would a teacher be without her students?
Jun 25, 2013 | Latest Art Projects, Ravens & Eagles, Tlingit Culture Accentuated |
Clarissa’s latest Chilkat robe “Diving Whale Lovebirds” danced by Wayne Price during the “Weavers’ Dance” at the Adaka Festival in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – photograph by Ken Kaushansky
Well…I finished this robe on Summer Solstice 2013 in Whitehorse, Yukon just before it was hung as part of the Northwest Coast art exhibit at the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center. The owners of the robe rendevous-ed with me at the Festival to attend the ceremony, meet carver Wayne Price and have the robe placed in their arms. Again, it was not easy parting from another “child.”
The following photographs show the weaving progression from end to start – yes, sounds backwards don’t it, but just wanted to give you an artistic experience of “thinking backwards!”
In the professional photographer’s studio! (and no I’m not THAT big; the shirt is just big on me…hello!
According to my weaving teacher, the late Jennie Thlunaut, who passed at the age of 96 in 1986, she said that I must NEVER show my weaving-in-progress to the owners if the robe is commissioned. They are not to see the robe until it is completed. I never asked “why” because it was futile, I’d be wasting my words. To the best of my abilities, I did not, and have not, shown the progression of my robes as I have honored Jennie’s request.
Completed weaving the robe June 15th – then there were the side braids to be done – yum, yum, the side braids are the best part of weaving a Chilkat robe!
So now that I have completed the robe, and have delivered it to the rightful owners, I can show you the progression of the robe…
On the Alaska ferry from Juneau to Skagway…
Ursala weaves the side braids; Amelie “helps” too!
Close-up of how I finished the bottom yellow border
Whooooheee – finished the design field of the robe, just need to weave the borders, weave the side braids, weave the signature tie-offs, block the weaving, etc. – (a foreign language?)
One last portion to complete!
Started the form line of the last pair of eyes to weave
Close-up of weaving the borders down to match the left corner of the design field
Three-quarters complete!
A vivacious Chilkat face!
Beginning to weave the bottom of the top and bottom of the beaks – the left one is Eagle and the right one is Raven…of course!
The robe is a bit more than half-way woven….
A few weaving details….now, I have never considered myself a very good weaver, although there are many who say otherwise. In so doing and being, I can say that I am progressing at it…every time I weave I get slightly better…in ways, i get better, my dear,…in ways!
yep, the colors of this robe are brilliant…(unlike the weaver who has lost her brilliancy as she has aged…)
more details…the circles are pretty good…not too bad….not too bad! Always pay attention to the braids…the braids are what shape the shapes…!
I can say that this Chilkat robe is one-third complete!
No we do not weave straight across; this photo just makes it LOOK like we weave straight across…!
It is still winter time…had to wear my fleece topped by my Japanese quilted jacket with my hand-sewn Ainu headband…weaving, weaving, weaving…
The loom is in the guest room where I am borrowing the space cuz my studio is way too cold to work – it’s gotten down to zero degrees out there! — The plastic transparency “templates” are clipped to the warp…
Well, if you aren’t a friend of mine on Facebook, then you haven’t seen this photo take by my son, the film-maker…
Not a good idea to weave day and night like I can. Else you get to be a boring person; like I can be. And then you just want to stare at everything else except the weaving…and the grand-children! I don’t mind staring at the grandchildren! heeeheee!
…come to think of it, my eyes rest easy and well on my grandchildren!…so nice to have this one around while weaving…a real treat!
The ravenstail border is completed – yeah!
Bright and white day today…that’s because the spirits know there’s a new robe, a new “skin” that has been “born” most recently. good medicine.
Here’s a sketch of the proposed robe. It’s a ‘Diving Whale Lovebirds”
The preliminary sketch of the Chilkat robe I’m about to start some day soon – I drafted this design just three weeks before my mother passed away…June 2011 – it took me two years to complete this weaving; of course, though I was doing all kinds of other major things as well in that time period (i.e. burying my mother, moving to Santa Fe to attend IAIA for BFA degree, commuting to Colorado to spend time with my daughter and family, an exhibit, taught a couple of classes and three different apprenticeships, not to mention travel, etc. etc. You know, it’s called an “artist’s life.” I would not recommend this lifestyle for the weak of heart…!
Jun 12, 2013 | Class Act, Tlingit Culture Accentuated, Tools-of-the-Trade |
My temporary assistant Lis Saya is preparing 2-oz. skeins of weft yarn for dyeing Chilkat yellow
If you’d like to know my recipe for dyeing the Chilkat golden yellow weft, just give me a call and I’ll give it to you over the phone. I am feeling too tired to think about placing the recipe on line here right now. Forgive me for being lazy in this moment.
Golden yellow weft hangs to dry in the sunshine after it has been lightly washed in Ivory dish soap. When dry, we’ll put up the yarns in balls instead of leaving the yarn in skeins.
The best Chilkat gold!!!
Apr 1, 2013 | Class Act, Tlingit Culture Accentuated, Tools-of-the-Trade |
Above shows the texture of a “Fast-black” weave over three warp ends instead of two or four
Jennie Thlunaut would often use 4-ply yarn to weave just the yellow and black borders of her Chilkat robes. This enabled the weaving of the borders to be completed in half the amount of time when using the standard 2-ply yarn. However, I do not like the thickness of the weave, yet I wanted the weaving of the borders to go a bit quicker. So I “invented” (or at least thought that I invented) what I came to find out is called the “fast-black” weavers.
In the black border of the Chilkat robe, nstead of weaving over every two warp ends, I weave over 3 warp ends.
Years ago when I completed my first Chilkat robe for her uncle, my friend (and weaving student), Donna C., noticed that my black border had a different-looking texture to it. So being the inquisitive and fine weaver that she is, she carefully took a look at my weave and exclaimed “Hey, you are one of those fast-black weavers…I’ve seen this kind of technique in some of the old robes from our area and other places…!”
Really? I thought to myself,…and chucks, I thought I was doing something unique! Ha, I am reminded once again “there is nothing new under the sun” — if it has been thought of, it has been done!
Mar 29, 2013 | Honoring Others, Relationship Overdrive, Tlingit Culture Accentuated |
Clarissa and Ann Smith enjoy one anothers’ company at the Grand Opening of the Kwaanlin Dun Cultural Center during the annual Adaka Festival, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – 2012
Whenever I begin weaving a Chilkat robe, I give thanks to Ann Smith, Kwaanlin Dun Wolf Clan from Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. I am remembering a life-turning conversation and experience I had with her. While it is true Jennie Thlunaut taught me how to weave Chilkat, and I will forever be thankful for the gift Jennie entrusted to me; it was Ann who inspired me to weave Chilkat robes.
In 1992, during a month-long Chilkat Weavers’ Gathering hosted by Darlene See, Ann was beginning the weaving of her first robe; she had the top 6 inches or so of the border completed. I hadn’t woven a Chilkat robe yet. At the time, I had no desire to weave Chilkat robes; I imagined myself on the path of weaving smaller pieces that accentuated modern-day clothing – yokes, cuffs, collars, lapels, etc.
I asked Ann why she wanted to weave robes at a time when it seemed like people didn’t appreciate them, much less even know how much time and dedication this type of weaving takes. She replied calmly and quietly “…Clarissa…it’s like this…we have to re-educate our people of not just the design and technique of weaving,…we have to educate them of the value…we have lost our knowledge of this art form and we have to gain back so much more than just that…” I added with a big sigh: “…well, Ann, that is a big task for us to tackle, don’t you think…?” To which she replied: “…well, that’s a choice we make. We are at a place in our lives where we can make that difference. What better choice to make than to be of service to our people who need this kind of strength in our lives…”
I asked her about working on a weaving that takes at least a year to make; like why would anyone want to work on something that took so long to make? Ann added: “…it’s the spirit of the thing…it’s the feeling that comes over me as I weave…it’s like this time-less connection of time immemorial that is happening at the same time…it feels as though all my relations are here with me, as though every Chilkat weaver that ever lived is standing behind me as I weave, watching, guiding and supporting me…” Ann motioned for me to sit down and weave on her robe. (Now that I have woven several Chilkat and Ravenstail robes, when a weaver invites you to weave on her robe, THAT is an honor!) I wove a few stitches on the border of her robe, maybe a total of 10 inches…when suddenly, I felt a power come over me, I felt a presence of many but I could not place my finger on it…I experienced the essence of what Ann spoke of!
Ann apprenticed with me in Chilkat weaving from 1992 to 1996. She is one of the most finest weavers I’ve ever known. Her finery too is woven in the manner in which she lives her life and guides her family and people. Over the years, I have sought her counsel in matters of relationships, art and business. She lead me to weave Chilkat robes; it changed my life in many more ways than one. Gunalcheesh, Ann!
Mar 26, 2013 | Tlingit Culture Accentuated, Tools-of-the-Trade |
Looking through a window of Chilkat spirit
As I mentioned in my last blog entry, my teacher, the late Jennie Thlunaut taught me Chilkat “laws” or guidelines for weavers. She had indicated that many customs went by the wayside when the white man came. She said that when a woman was preparing all her materials to weave a robe, the weaver also prepared her mind and body. She prayed and refrained from certain foods and took care of her physical body. Once she began weaving the robe and during the entire time of the actual weaving of a Chilkat robe, the weaver refrained from any intimate relations with her man. When she told me this, immediately I wondered why we would have that custom.
Years later, when I was demonstrating Chilkat weaving during a Q & A period, an audience member had asked about any customs and laws pertaining to Chilkat weaving. When I had mentioned this particular custom, I was surprised at the immediate responses from the chuckling audience. They included:
“Oh,….no wonder why there aren’t very many robes out there!”
“Oh,…no wonder why there aren’t very many Chilkat weavers!”
“Oh really?…I think I’ll become a weaver!”
“Oh…what a perfect method of birth control…!”
“Whoa, there’s no way I’ll support my wife to become a weaver…!”
“No Wonder some weavers can weave a full size ceremonial robe in 2 or 3 months!”
If you have any responses and would like to share them, please feel free to leave a comment…!
Mar 22, 2013 | Honoring Others, Relationship Overdrive, Tlingit Culture Accentuated, Tools-of-the-Trade |
Clarissa instructs Frances Joe and Marge Jackson during Clarissa’s 2nd Chilkat weaving class held in August 1990, Klukshu, Yukon Territory, Canada
Jennie Thlunaut taught me several Chilkat “laws” or guidelines for weavers and weavings. This day in age we would call them “taboos” since most of us modern folk do not (or will not) honor the laws of old – most modern folk think that following the “old ways of thinking and doing” no longer applies to us today. Some of us folks say that they want to follow the ways of our people, yet when it comes right down to applying those old teachings, or when it comes to honoring the elders and their guidelines, we choose to ignore.
You as a weaver, can decide for yourself which laws may apply to you.
The following list are some of the “rules of weaving.” Jennie was quite adamant about these certain things and I learned to honor them – they include:
1). no human hands – although you can weave three fingers and a thumb, you WILL NOT weave four fingers and a thumb!
2). Pray each morning before you weave – prayer is to always give thanks for the gift of weaving that you’ve been given, that you have your health and that you have lots of love in your family and friends,…prayer of giving thanks for everything you’ve been given, everything that you have, everything that has come to you.
An East Indian woven cloth to cover a Chilkat loom – a good protector from dirt and negative energies…!
3). Cover your work each time you are not working on it; always cover it before you retire for the night.
Complete the closure of any eye or circle before retiring for the day
4). When weaving a circle or an eye, always allow for enough time to complete weaving them before going to bed; so if you start an eye or a circle in the morning, and then you have other things to do during the day, you must make time to complete the weaving of the circle or eye, close it up, before you go to sleep that night – never leave it open during the time that you sleep.
5). Do not teach (“straight”) men – if you teach “gay” men, then make sure their character is in harmony with the Chilkat spirit.
6). Not to get big-headed about being a weaver; no room for being egotistical – keep your ego in check – especially when you are challenged by another
7). Go to your loom with clean heart, clean mind, clean body – do not weave when you are in a negative mood. That kind of energy goes into the robe and this is not good because the robe will carry that energy and may be transferred to the person who is dancing in the robe.
8). Do not show your weaving to the person who is buying (or may be buying) your weaving before it is completed.
Chilkat weaving is a strong spirit. Jennie tried hard to explain these things to me. I was young then, however, in my experiences as an active weaver, I have come to know many things of the unseen, and I see why the Chilkat laws of weaving apply today even as they did 100 years ago…the ways of the physical reality may change, the ways in how we live may change, yet the ways of spirit do not. I have experienced that when you apply these teachings, any or all, no matter what goes on in your life, positive and negative, there resides a strong, steady “rudder” serving as a guide of the straight and narrow path – and you will recognize all the good things that have been placed in your path – kind of like a path of righteousness.
Would these “laws” apply to Ravenstail weaving? I do not know, however, it wouldn’t hurt to apply these things to your every-day lives! What have you got to lose?
Mar 20, 2013 | Honoring Others, Ravens & Eagles, Showing Off, Tlingit Culture Accentuated, Tools-of-the-Trade |
Close up of “Jennie Weaves An Apprentice” Chilkat robe by Clarissa Rizal completed 2011 – It is part of a series of Chilkat robe designs by Clarissa featuring a Chilkat robe within a Chilkat robe – the green and blue is to delineate between apprentice and teacher, the past and present, the present and future, Raven and Eagle clans
Jennie Thlunaut taught me several Chilkat “laws” or guidelines for weavers and weavings. This day in age we would call them “taboos” since most of us modern folk do not (or will not) honor the laws of old – most modern folk think that following the “old ways of thinking and doing” no longer applies to us today. Some of us folks say that they want to follow the ways of our people, yet when it comes right down to applying those old teachings, or when it comes to honoring the elders and their guidelines, we choose to ignore.
Chilkat weaving has a strong spirit. Jennie tried hard to explain these things to me. I was young then. I am young still, however, in my experiences as an active weaver, I have come to know many things of the unseen, and I see why the Chilkat laws of weaving apply today even as they did 100 years ago…the ways of the physical reality may change, the ways in how we live may change, yet the ways of spirit do not. I have experienced that when you apply these teachings, any or all, no matter what goes on in your life, positive and negative, there resides a strong, steady “rudder” serving as a guide of the straight and narrow path – and you will recognize all the good things that have been placed in your path – kind of like a path of righteousness.
In the next blog entries towards the end of March into April, I will list some of the Chilkat weaving laws, for both the weaving and the weavers. You as a weaver, can decide for yourself which laws may apply to you.
Thank you for staying tuned.
Feb 28, 2013 | Class Act, Tlingit Culture Accentuated, Uncategorized |
Chilkat warp stick
Chilkat “warp sticks” are an easy device for measuring warp for your projects. This “traditional” warp stick (shown above) was fashioned directly from Jennie Thluntau’s warp stick. The stick measures approximately 53″ high x 2″ wide x 1″ thick.
Chilkat Warp Stick notches are cut at 1″ intervals
The warp sticks are generally made of wood with notches at 1″ intervals. There are two groups of 1″ notches: The group of longer lengths are for a standard size Chilkat robe; the shorter group of lengths is for a standard size Chilkat apron.
Vanessa Morgan measures her warp lengths on her brand new Chilkat Warp Stick!
Using a piece of cardboard as another alternative for a Chilkat “warp stick” – a piece of cardboard cut to the desired length of a weaving project, you wrap your warp around and around and cut only one end of all the warp – another one of Jennie Thlunaut’s “tricks-of-the-trade”
I hope you are enjoying the various “tricks-of-the-trade” shared with you the past couple of weeks – please stay tuned for additional ones within the next couple of months….thanks for visiting!
Feb 12, 2013 | Class Act, Tlingit Culture Accentuated, To See or Not to See, Tools-of-the-Trade |
The late Jennie Thlunaut’s hands showing Clarissa a trick-of-the-trade…photo by Clarissa during her apprenticeship with Jennie – May 1986
In the next few weeks, I will be posting a variety of weaving “tricks-of-the-trade” – many of those that Jennie taught me and a few I devised from my years of weaving experience. Some of the tricks are conveyed in my Chilkat Weavers’ Handbook, however, I am too busy to revise and update the handbook, therefore no handbooks. However, I am on a Chilkat weaving roll right now – anything to do with Chilkat and I’m on to it – and I want to assist my fellow weavers, and any past or future students of mine. I want you to be a happier weaver as these tricks will help ease your process of weaving – So, stay tuned!
And hey, if you have any weaving tricks, I welcome you to share them!
